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 St.
Martin's Day, the 11th of November, is very important for the wine producers. It
is connected with the traditional custom known for a long time. It is called
«the baptism of wine».
Why is St. Martin connected with this custom, no one really knows. Maybe it is
just because the 11th of November, the day of St. Martin's death, is the time
when some process in production of wine is over and it becomes ready for
drinking, maybe because the production of wine is connected with the Benedictine
monks, and wherever they appeared, they started growing grapes and producing
wine.
Historical dates say that he was born in the Panonnian Plane, somewhere in
today's Hungary in 316 AD. St. Martin was known for his act of sharing his red
cape with an old poor man, he was a friend of poor peasant. When he became a
bishop, he didn't live in cities like many other bishops; he devoted his life to
villages and their inhabitants who nobody took care of. He became the patron of
knights, soldiers, wine producers and France, so perhaps all these facts
contributed to the legend and developed the custom, which is very much alive in
my country. This is what it looks like in my home.
People who took part in grape gathering come again to our house on that day.
Nobody wants to miss that event. Mother and I work all day long preparing dinner
for this celebration. The tambura bend comes every year to accomplish the
cheerful atmosphere. Our guests start gathering about 8 o'clock in the evening.
When everybody comes, my father puts on specially prepared clothes. She is
dressed like a bishop, St. Martin, and he approaches to new wine talking to it
as the priest talks to a child. Even the godfather is found among our friends.
The ritual reminds of baptizing of a child, so people call it «baptism of new
wine». Through fun and jokes they play the roles. The rhymes and songs they say
refer to joy and merry atmosphere which wine creates. It is believed that from
that time on, the new wine is turned into wine and becomes ready for drinking.
This humorous ceremony anticipates good mood and entertainment.
This event is followed by music, singing and dancing, having good time during
and after dinner, people taste wine tell toasts, and celebration last till
morning.
Ana Milić
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