Linguine alle acciughe

This recipe is drawn from Caròla Francesconi's La Cucina Napoletana. It's among those traditionally served on Christmas Eve, though there's no reason to enjoy it only then. Ms. Francesconi warns not to sauté the anchovies, lest they loose their freshness and flavor.

To serve 6:

Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil and add the pasta. While it's cooking sauté the two cloves of garlic in the oil in a large skillet, removing them once they have browned (don't let them burn). Stir in the parsley and the anchovies, together with a tablespoon or two of the pasta water. Turn off the flame and continue stirring the sauce to dissolve the anchovy filets. Season with a grind of pepper, and as soon as the pasta is done drain it. Transfer it to the skillet and toss it with the sauce over a low flame for a few seconds. Serve.

We suggest a rich white wine, along the lines of a Fiano di Avellino, with this.