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by Rositsa Kuneva
Near the Danube and on the coasts of Black and White Seas by
a very old tradition on “Nikulden”, “Blagovetz” and “Velikden”(Easter) is made
the obligatory food “ribnik”-fish baked in dough or “bulgur”(rice).
In many mountain regions beetroot is prepared in a special way and it is not an
everyday food. In most of the villages in Southwestern and Eastern Bulgaria in
every house on ”Surva“(New Year), “Todorovden”, and “Blagovets” is cooked
beetroot, with meat or meatless. On most of the holidays in January and February
people in "Blagoevgrad" and “Kjustendil” (towns in Bulgaria) eat beetroot.
On ”Surva“, “Nikulden”, Christmas Eve, “Zagovezni”, “Todorovden”, “Dimitrovden”
beans are prepared, without thickening, while the beans used in the everyday
meal are fried.
By the 30s of 20th century on weddings, funerals and christenings were prepared
two meals - meatless “bulgur” and beans, cooked only in water without any
vegetables and oil. Then people started preparing “kurban”- mutton boiled in
water and “bulgur” added.
The food made on holidays is different from everyday food- it is prepared in a
special way.
Food and its habits have a social function. They are bound up with the social
relationship between people and their discrimination.
Even the prohibition of eating meat on some holidays or restricting the common
eating of all members of the family, have an important function connected with
the social relationship.
Food’s integrating function is emphasized on the common feasts of the whole
village, where ” the souls of all villagers come together, everyone should
apologize for whatever bad thing he had done to his neighbor ”.
The social character of food is emphasized on at common “kurbans”, made for
fertility and health, against disasters and epidemics. On such meetings people
not only come together to enjoy the food, but take important decisions and solve
common problems. Such gatherings were used not only for connecting people, but
also for connecting them and their God- sacrifices were made. And that old
tradition is still alive in the mountain villages in Western, Southwestern and
Southeastern Bulgaria.
A survey of the traditional food and habits of the Bulgarians in different parts
of the country shows that all of them have the common base and character.
Bulgarian food has distinctive characteristics for each of the three ethnical
groups that have formed the Bulgarian nationality. And important is the fact
that by the 19th century the national food is almost a united whole (ingredients
and technology of preparing it) for towns and villages.
There are some slight differences in the food between the people in the planes
and the mountain regions. In planes the use of vegetable predominates, pulse and
products made from dough. In the mountain regions, by contrast, mainly milk,
dairy foods and meat are consumed.
In the mountains in Western, Southwestern and Southeastern Bulgaria people have
kept some traditional elements from the Old Bulgarian cuisine (like cooking
without frying).
During the 17th century new cultures penetrated into the Bulgarian cuisine,
which enriched it. Then with the developing of the capitalistic relationships a
distinction between the village and town food was made, without being fully
discriminated. The village food has kept traditions and characteristics of the
Old Bulgarian cuisine, while the town food is slightly different after the
influence of new cultures.
In the food and its habits of Bulgarian people there is a strong social
distinction by the socialistic revolution. Rich people eat often meat and cook
with butter; the middle villagers consume meat in winter and on holidays, while
poor people eat almost without meat.
But in the conditions of the socialistic society it is the base in forming the
contemporary eating habits.
It is a fact that during the last few years the society shows a bigger interest
of the traditional Bulgarian food.
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