For many years, and especially under the Bourbon kings, Naples was one
of the great capital cities of Europe. It reached its cultural zenith
during the reign of Charles, who later became Charles III of Spain. During
his reign Herculaneum and Pompeii were discovered, the palaces of
Portici and Capodimonte were built and the Archeological Museum was
founded.
Perhaps
Charles' greatest creation was the Royal Palace at Caserta. Wanting a
home to rival his ancestors' palaces at Versailles and Escorial, Charles
hired Luigi Vanvitelli, southern Italy's greatest architect, to design a
complex of buildings and gardens that ended up being larger and more
impressive than either of its predecessors
Located out of range of both Vesuvius and of marauding sea 
pirates,
Caserta is a 30-minute train ride from Naples Central station. The
palace was the last great building of the Italian baroque, and though
you can't visit each of its 1200 rooms, the ones you will see are as
extravagant as they are exquisite. The majestic main staircase, whose
116 steps were all carved from one gigantic block of stone, is a perfect
combination of rich marbles and dramatic perspectives. It leads to the
splendiferous 25 rooms of the royal apartments. Be sure to visit the
jewel-like theatre.
The gardens are immense; stroll through the Bosco Vecchio (old wood),
past the little castle built as a playhouse for the Bourbon princes,
past the fish pond where mock sea battles were staged to amuse the
members of the royal court, past the dolphin fountain and on to the
fountain of Diana and Actaeon, a sculptural group as animated and
enchanting as the one in Trevi Fountain. Rest a while here, for you
still haven't reached the loveliest section of the park, the English
Gardens, embellished with a tiny lake and fake ancient ruins.
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