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The
setting of Tosca in Rome opens up so many gastronomic possibilities! No Italian
opera singer would discount the importance of food in Italian opera. In the case
of Tosca, it's fun to speculate about what the characters were actually eating.
The Lunch Basket
Tosca's lover, Cavaradossi, had a basket lunch brought to him by the
church sacristan. Probably this lunch was not very different from what is eaten
in Rome today. It would have had a loaf of bread - probably white, as
Cavaradossi was a nobleman (peasants ate dark bread, the well-to-do ate white);
a local sheep cheese, like the Cacio di Roma or Sini Fulvi Pastore that we can
find today. No doubt there would have been a farm-cured salami and a jug of wine
- possibly a white from Orvieto.
Scarpia's Dinner
Now to what Scarpia was eating on that fateful night. As the police
chief of Rome, he would have eaten in the style of Roman nobility. Since it was
evening, his dinner was a lighter version of the main meal of the day eaten at
mid-afternoon.
As today, food was status for people like Scarpia. His dinner earlier in the day
would probably have begun with a tray of artfully arranged small appetizers like
prosciutto
wrapped
in colorful marzipan, savory tartlets of nuts and greens, and small fritters of
sweetbreads or, perhaps, oysters. A soup would follow this course - possibly a
capon broth with tiny ravioli floating in it, their filling consisting of breast
of capon, cheese, cinnamon, nutmeg, marrow, and herbs. Then there would be
either a roasted whole fish stuffed with truffles or, perhaps, hare cooked in a
pungent sweet/sour sauce of black pepper, sugar, vinegar, nuts, fruits, and red
wine. Once this dish was removed, the servants would present a large silver
platter with a whole baby lamb roasted and turned on a spit over an open fire
until glazed to a mahogany brown. The tender meat would have been laced with
strips of prosciutto and basted with wine and herbs. For dessert, Scarpia
probably had trays of tiny cookies and fanciful marzipan and, perhaps, an
elaborate molded frozen dessert layering cake and iced cream. When Tosca enters
I've always imagined that Scarpia was just finishing the dessert. That Spanish
wine referred to might have been a sweet one - possibly a dark golden and rich
Oloroso Sherry.
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